Raising Backyard Chickens: A Beginner’s Guide to Hen Keeping
The time has come for our sweet little urban homestead to introduce backyard chickens! I didn’t realise how EXCITED I was until they were home with us scratching around in their new digs. Who needs a TV when you’ve got chickens, am I right?!
I’ve had backyard chickens for most of my childhood and to recreate this now for my daughter gives me ALL THE SIMPLE LIFE FEELS! #thisislivingbarry
Keeping backyard chickens is rewarding on SO many levels. They provide fresh eggs, natural pest control, and the joy of connecting with nature. Whether you’re drawn to the idea of self-sufficiency or you want to experience the joys of raising poultry, there’s no better time to start than now. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore everything you need to know about raising healthy and happy chickens in your very own backyard, from choosing the right breed to providing proper care, and housing and my top 6 backyard chicken breeds.
Before we get into Raising Backyard Chickens: A Beginner’s Guide to Hen Keeping, here are a few little fun facts:
Chickens have a profound memory and can distinguish between more than 100 faces of their species 🐔. They can also recognise people. AKA this hen mumma with the food bucket!
They can distinguish colours and also see ultraviolet light and iridescent hues. Their world looks more colourful than ours 🌈
Chickens demonstrate REM (Rapid Eye Movement) when sleeping. That means they are capable of dreaming, just like us human beings 💤
Chickens have pain receptors, meaning they can feel pain and suffering🤕
Chickens understand that it still exists when an object is taken away and hidden🪄
pin it for later 📌
Getting Started
Estimate your weekly consumption of eggs
You’ll need to estimate the number of eggs you and your family will consume in a week. Your average chicken will lay 5 to 6 eggs per week if properly cared for. This will determine how many chickens you plan on raising, and ultimately how much space they will need.
Space Required
A good rule of thumb for spacing is 1 square metre per hen. However, 2 square metres per hen is preferable. The more space you have for your chickens, the better as they are less likely to bully or fight amongst themselves.
Where you live
Where you live can play a major part in how successful you are with your hen-keeping. Contrary to popular belief, you won’t need a grassed area for your chickens. They will not only eat the grass but also wear it out by scratching it as they look for grubs. These ladies are the mini versions of goats; they will turn your garden upside down in very little time.
Local Shire or Council Regulations
It’s important to check with your local shire or council on how many birds you can keep in your backyard. You must also consider if the shire/council have specific location requirements, i.e., 1.5 meters from a boundary fence, etc. if there are restrictions on the breed of chicken, and if Roosters are allowed. You may need to submit plans showing suitable shelter, water and food.
Choosing the Right Breed
Selecting the right breed of chicken is an important step as not all breeds are created equal nor are they always the popular choice. There are pure breeds, bantams and hybrids. Pure breeds and bantams are split into heavy and light.
Factors to consider when choosing your flock include:
Climate suitability; where you live will determine which breed will thrive in your area. Most breeds will fall within these categories: Warm, dry, damp, cool, moderate or all
Temperament; Some breeds of chickens are known to be more friendly, docile, and affectionate than others. This is particularly important if you’ve got children and they want to be involved in caring for your hens.
Egg production; as mentioned above, working out your weekly egg requirements will narrow down which breeds suit your needs. Some breeds are prolific layers and others are just here for a good time! The below table will give you an idea of egg production in 12 months.
Below are my top 6 picks (in no particular order) for chicken breeds that suit Perth’s climate:
Australorp
Size: Hens 3.6kg (8lb) / Cockerels 4.5kg (10lb)
Life Span: 6-10 years
Egg production (per 12 months): 200 eggs
Temperament: docile, easy-going and super friendly!
Australorp’s are an Aussie favourite due to their delicious eggs and sweet and docile temperament. It’s what makes them such a great pet. The Australorp is an Australian native bred from the Orpington chicken. It was bred as a good dual-purpose chicken. It’s a heavy breed that lays tinted eggs productively, regardless of seasonal changes AND is a good meat bird. While black is the main and most popular colour, Australorps come in blue and white however white isn’t as popular.
Rhode Island Red
Size: Hens 3kg (6.5lb) / Cockerels 3.8kg (8.5lb)
Life Span: 5-8 years
Egg production (per 12 months): 220 eggs
Temperament: docile, friendly and quiet.
Rhode Island Reds are the top choice for backyard chicken owners seeking a low-maintenance layer to enhance their flock. These hens are famous for their resilience in any environment. Whether it’s raining, snowing, or under the summer sun, the Rhode Island Red thrives happily in any backyard setting! Originating from poultry farms in Little Compton, Rhode Island in the late 1800s, the Rhode Island Red breed quickly gained popularity across the United States AND here in Australia.
Sussex
Size: Hens 3.2kg (7lb) / Cockerels 4kg (9lb)
Life Span: 5-8 years
Egg production (per 12 months): 220 eggs
Temperament: graceful, gritty and curious.
Sussex chickens are an excellent addition to any backyard coop for those seeking a friendly yet hardy bird. With a rich heritage and a kind, curious demeanour, Sussex chickens are ideal for beginner chicken keepers and anyone looking to add a social hen to their flock. These birds make wonderful companions, always keeping you company as they forage alongside you in the garden. They enjoy being part of the family and are equally content mingling with their flock in the garden, coop, or chicken run, naturally fitting into the pecking order.
Isa Brown
Size: Hens 3.2kg (7lb) / Cockerels 4kg (9lb)
Life Span: 2-3 years (8 years if cared for properly)
Egg production (per 12 months): 300 eggs
Temperament: gentle and affectionate
The ISA Brown is a modest chicken, with its name being a copyrighted brand rather than a breed designation. Developed and patented by a French company in 1978 for optimal egg production, the ISA Brown has since soared in popularity. They are a popular choice for urban backyards and farmers, and these lovely hens are favoured for many reasons. I admire ISA Browns’ gentle disposition, resilience, and exceptional egg-laying abilities surpassing other hens. However, their lifespan is rather short compared to most hens due to their significant egg production throughout their lives. This is why they are so popular with large-scale egg farms.
Orpington
Size: Hens 3.6kg (8lb) / Cockerels 4.5kg (10lb)
Life Span: 8-10
Egg production (per 12 months): 180 eggs
Temperament: absolute sweethearts
The adorable, courteous, and dignified Orpington chicken might be one of the best mothers in the animal kingdom. Developed by British poultry breeders at the turn of the 20th century, the Orpington chicken was bred to be a hardy breed capable of enduring England’s harshest winters while maintaining impressive egg production. These large, fluffy, and cuddly hens add grace and dignity to any coop. Though they may seem homely and commonplace, these prolific egg layers are an extraordinary addition to any flock.
Silkie
Size: Hens 900g (2lb) / Cockerels 1.4kg (3lb)
Life Span: 8-10
Egg production (per 12 months): 100 eggs
Temperament: calm, friendly, affectionate
Silkie chickens are renowned for their distinctive fluffy and puffy plumage, making them stand out in any flock. While some might picture a chaotic mass of brown or black feathers, Silkies bring a unique flair and style, setting them apart from cousins like ISA Browns and Australorps. Despite their low egg production, Silkies make up for it with their gentle nature and striking appearance.
Housing and Shelter
A safe and comfortable shelter is essential for keeping your backyard chickens healthy. A good chicken coop protects them from predators like dogs, cats and foxes. I highly suggest investing in a good quality coop that has these 5 basic requirements:
Easy to clean; choose materials that can be hosed down and won’t perish when you give them a bit of elbow grease when cleaning. Beware of using treated wood as some chemicals have been known to leach into the soil beneath your coop and may be ingested by your chickens while foraging. Having slide-out trays is a game change in coops. They can be removed and cleaned easily.
Portable; do you want a movable chicken coop? Having the luxury of moving your girls around proves beneficial not only for your hens but your garden too. These are called chicken tractors and are widely used in permaculture settings. It’s a method I have adopted with my chickens and honestly haven’t looked back! Installing wheels and a lifting mechanism will save you the time and muscle strain of moving your coop around your backyard.
Safety; the coop must be fully enclosed with hard metal materials like steel or wire. You can use wired mesh as skirting to ensure no predators can tunnel underneath. Using locks or padlocks will prevent anything from getting in at night while your chooks are asleep.
Weather; for your coop to make it through the throws of winter or the sweltering summer you’ll need to check the coop has proper ventilation, like air vents and is water-tight so they stay warm and dry.
Durability; in the same way you’d build your own house for strength and durability, you want to ensure the same is done for your chickens. Finding materials that stand the test of time and weather will go a long way to keeping your chickens happy, healthy and laying like champions! While cheap materials and coops look appealing for obvious financial purposes, they don’t last anywhere near as long as the more expensive ones.
My top pick for a backyard chicken coop is….. 👇🏻
After a ton of research on chicken coops available here in Australia, we decided to purchase the Omlet Eglu Large Cube (not affiliated but hit me up Omlet 😉 ). It’s a sturdy chicken coop with ample ventilation, nest boxes, and perches for up to 6 chickens. PLUS it keeps them dry in winter, and cool in summer, it is fully customisable and has an optional tractor mode. The method, called a chicken tractor, that we’re using requires our chooks to move every 2 weeks and this model ticks all the necessary boxes! I also love the automatic chook door that opens and closes with the sun. Our hens took less than 3 days to suss it all out and are tucked up in bed before the door shuts. It’s very convenient, especially in the evening when juggling kids and dinner prep.
Is Hay good for nesting boxes?
Hay and straw are not good choices for chicken bedding because they create the perfect conditions for mould. Although hay has become popular because it is absorbent and cheap, it is not the cleanest environment for your chicken coop. On a microscopic level, it harbours strains of bacteria that can make your chickens sick.
OK, so what should I use instead?
Pine or wood shavings are the ideal bedding solution to maintain a clean, dry, and comfortable environment for your backyard chickens. They are highly absorbent by drying droppings quickly and eliminate unpleasant smells. The wood shavings help reduce flies and rodents in the coop, creating a healthier living space for your chickens.
Pine/wood shavings have natural insulating properties that help to maintain a consistent temperature in the coop, keeping your hens warm and comfortable. You can also use them in a “deep litter” system that promotes the natural composting of droppings, reducing the frequency of bedding replacement and minimising maintenance costs. You can pick them up in bulk at your local hardware or pet store.
Free Range vs. Chicken Run
Decide whether you want to allow your chickens to free-range or confine them to a chicken run. Free-ranging allows your chickens to forage for food and exercise, but it may expose them to predators. A chicken run provides a safe place for chickens to roam while protecting them from harm.
Before introducing your chickens to their new run or free-range backyard, go through your backyard and identify gaps in boundary fences, side gates or flyscreen doors that need repairing. Your chickens are intelligent and curious and will stop at nothing once they’ve found a good foraging spot! Let’s not rule out overhead hazards as well; hawks, falcons and other large birds of prey find chicks to be quite a tasty morsel indeed.
Feeding and Nutrition
Your body is a temple and so are your chickens! Maintaining a balanced diet is crucial for the health and productivity of your flock. This balanced diet consists of high-quality poultry feed, leafy greens, fresh, clean water and occasional treats. You want to avoid feeding them store-bought eggs or scraps that may contain harmful ingredients.
High-Quality Poultry feed
The most common and convenient feed is made from specially ground and formulated meals. It’s a mix of grains, vegetable proteins and minerals. When looking for feed it’s essential to make sure the products are free from genetic modification (GMO FREE). Over the years, most grains and forms of vegetable proteins have been selected to make better crops in terms of yield and pest resistance. However many, including myself, feel that there should be a regulatory body checking on scientific experimentation so that GM foods don’t not enter the food chain. While research is limited on GM food passing through to hen eggs, it’s best to avoid it at all costs if you’re planning on raising your backyard chickens organically.
So what does a high-quality poultry feed include?
Well, I’m glad you asked! The current brand I’m using (WA Consolidated Grain Products, Super Poultry Mix) contains; Wheat, Triticale, Field Peas, Corn, Kalo, Groats, Canola, Meat Meal Proteins, Vegetable Proteins, Natural Calcium, Natural Wild Herbs, Shell Grit, Vitamin & Mineral Premix, Vegetable Oil. It is GMO-free, highly nutritious and palatable with all-natural ingredients. My backyard chickens see me coming with the feed bucket and lose their little minds with joy.
Another brand I have not personally tried yet, BUT have heard rave reviews is Eden Valley Poultry Kibble from Green Life Soil Co. It contains Biodynamic certified whole grains, bran, pollard, superfine limestone, salt, bicarbonate of soda, di-calcium phosphate, and trace minerals of copper, zinc, manganese & iron.
Foods to AVOID for your chooks
Since bringing our chickens home, we have started another food scrap bin; one for composting and the other for our chickens. This is vitally important as some foods chickens can’t digest properly, attract pests or cause disease and even death. Below are some foods you should avoid.
Raw Meat and Eggs; the risk of salmonella and other harmful bacteria from raw meat is just as great to a chicken as it is to a human. Whilst eating raw eggs won’t harm your chickens, it may encourage them to eat their own eggs, which is a rather nasty habit to break.
Onion; this allium contains sulphur compounds that irritate your flock’s mouth and esophagus. It has also been known to cause ulcers. Yikes!
Bread; contrary to popular belief (and many fond childhood memories!) giving your flock bread isn’t a great idea. It lacks any nutritional value and causes excessive pooping and deformities.
Fruit pits, seeds and (Avocado) skins; avocado leaves, skin and pits contain a toxin called “persin” which causes weakness, heart damage, respiratory issues and even death. Avoiding the whole fruit is best as even the flesh may contain traces. Some other fruit seeds that contain cyanide like apricots, apples, cherries, peaches, pears and plums all prove fatal to your chickens. Ensure all seeds are removed before feeding them the fleshy part of the fruit.
Caffeine; how can something so tasty cause hyperactivity, increased heart rate and even cardiac arrest? Coffee enough said. Oh wait, don’t forget chocolate too! Not only does chocolate contain caffeine but it also has theobromine which causes vomiting, diarrhea, seizures and even death.
Raw & green potato skins; contain a toxin called alkaloid solanine, which can harm birds and cause diarrhea, dizziness, paralysis and death. Sweet potato peels are, however, safe to give to your chickens.
Green tomatoes; similar to green potatoes, the solanine in green tomatoes has the same effect. Best to put this one straight in your compost bin.
Salty and processed, greasy food; too much salt isn’t good for anyone, imagine what it’s like for your flock? It affects their electrolyte and fluid balance which causes dehydration, kidney failure or even death. Processed or greasy foods aren’t healthy for humans and most certainly aren’t for a chook so keep those to the side.
Mouldy produce; if you’re cleaning out your fridge and find that zucchini you were meant to cook up, all covered with mould. It’s time to file that one in the trash! Any visible mould that grows on soft fruits, nuts, corn, and apples produces toxins that contribute to liver cancer in humans and animals. Also, mould grows quickly on damp feed so check and clean your feed tray daily.
Ok, ok enough doom and gloom! Let’s get onto the food you CAN feed your chooks:
Cooked meat, eggs and beans; make sure the meat and eggs are cut into small pieces and the beans will need to be soaked at a minimum of 6 hours and boiled for 30 minutes or more.
Grains; wheat, corn, oats and rice however make sure it’s cooked.
Fruit; all is acceptable with blueberries, strawberries and watermelon being major winners. They also enjoy stone fruit, apples and pears but as above, make sure the pits and seeds are removed. Other safe seeds and fruity flesh are grapes, citrus fruits, squash, pumpkins, tomatoes, melons, mangoes, pomegranates, and berries.
Vegetables; both cooker and raw are safe. A little fun fact: Green leafy vegetables will result in darker, richer yolks, who knew? Broccoli, carrots, cucumber, kale, lettuce and pumpkin are also favourites.
Eggshells; are crushed into small pieces and will provide your chickens with a great source of protein.
Herbs; Comfrey, calendula, coriander, lavender, oregano, parsley and sage are great for the immune system, and provide nutrients and vitamins.
How much and how often do I feed my chickens?
The recommended daily amount of feed is 100 – 150 grams per bird during their laying cycle. Couple this with a daily bucket of kitchen scraps and a weekly treat of soaked wheat. Fill a container (ice-cream size) with grain, cover with water and let it sit for 24 hours. Soaking the wheat softens the coating and brings out beneficial nutrients. The grains are more digestible and nutrients are more available to your backyard chickens.
Pests & Diseases
For the most part, the health and wellness of your backyard chickens should be trouble-free. Observation is key so be sure to sit with your hens daily or weekly and check them over.
Here are a few common pests to look out for:
Lice; Lice are small, straw-coloured insects around 1-6mm long, often with an elongated abdomen. This means they can be seen without too much effort using the naked eye. They like to live around areas like the vent, thighs and neck. Luckily there are various powders and sprays available. Don’t forget to their ingredients and ensure they’re as natural and organic as possible! The best time to apply the powder/spray is when they’re asleep, as your backyard chickens will be easier to handle. Apply the powder/spray to the main areas where lice are found and under their feathers as a good prevention. A dust bath is a great way for your chickens to manage this on their own.
Mites (Red & Northern); Mites look like tiny, moving dark specks. The red mite is a common Australian blood-sucking creature of the night! It attaches to your chickens at night and hides in cracks and crevices during the day (where it lays eggs). Mites are not easy to see as they’re between 0.5 – 1mm long. The northern fowl mite is another crafty individual, commonly found in north Australia. They actively live, feed and lay eggs on chickens 24/7. An infestation will look like damp patches on feathers. You will need to use specific treatments for each mite as some are a broad spectrum and won’t be as effective. When treating an infestation, treat your hens as well as their coop. The best way to do this is to clean the coop first and then spray or powder the most common areas where the mites live.
Scaly leg mites; This parasite is highly contagious and while the damage is much more visible, the mite itself is difficult to see. A very bad infestation will see the mite lift the scales on their legs and leave behind a white encrustation and if left untreated, will cripple them. There are two methods; barrier creams (like beeswax, lanolin or another thick balm) or suffocation through leg coverings. If you choose the barrier cream method, you will need to isolate your infected hens for 10-14 days, apply the cream and scrape off any scales in between applications as gently as possible.
Below are some diseases to be mindful of. These diseases are most likely to occur in large settings like commercial farms however it is a good idea to familiarise yourself with the symptoms so you can consult your local veterinarian.
Avian influenza (aka bird flu); originating in Asia, the bird flu has a high mortality rate and similar to the human flu you should watch for symptoms of sneezing, runny eyes, and lethargy.
Mycoplasma (aka Roup); similar to the bird flu this disease falls within the category of a common cold. As common as it may be the effects of this disease can be devastating. Look for discharge from the nostrils, a coughing or unusual sound and puffy eyes.
Mareks disease; is a dust-spreading disease more common in young hens that manifests just as there is a hormonal change as they approach lay. Look for obvious signs of their wings and legs showing paralysis.
Coccidiosis; is caused by dirty and damp conditions. These conditions affect mainly young chicks however if you see your hens exhibiting a loss of appetite and weakness coupled with red droppings then be sure to clean their coop and give them a dose of Amprolium. To treat with Amprolium follow the below protocol:
- Week 1: 1 tsp of Amprolium to 2 litres of fresh water, change daily for 7 days
- Week 2: 1/2 tsp of Amprolium to 2 litres of fresh water, change daily for 7 days
- Week 3: 1 tsp of Solvita* to 2 litres of fresh water, change daily for 7 days
*Amprolium depletes B vitamin levels in your flock because Coccidiosis needs vitamin B to thrive and multiply. It’s important to follow up with a good quality vitamin supplement. Solvita is a great treatment as it contains essential vitamins and minerals however if you cannot source this locally you can turn to your trusty old vegemite! Simply dissolve 1 tsp in hot water and add to 2 litres of fresh water.
Keeping backyard chickens is such a fulfilling and rewarding experience. By following this practical guide, you can raise healthy and happy chickens that will provide you with a constant supply of fresh eggs, laughter, and companionship for you and your family for years to come. However experienced you are, there’s no doubt that raising backyard chickens is a GREAT pass time PLUS who wants to pay $12-$14 for a carton of eggs? That is daylight robbery!
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Find more of my garden posts here:
The ULTIMATE Guide to Square-Foot Gardening
A special THANK YOU to these sources:
Hen Keeping; Raising Chickens at Home, By Mike Hatcher (I see what you did there 😉 )
https://www.backyardchickencoops.com.au/blogs/learning-centre/australorp-a-comprehensive-guide
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4 Seifert M, Baden T, Osorio D. The retinal basis of vision in chicken. Seminars in Cell & Developmental Biology. 2020;106:106–115. doi:10.1016/j.semcdb.2020.03.011
5 Rattenborg NC, van der Meij J, Beckers GJL, Lesku JA. Local Aspects of Avian Non-REM and REM Sleep. Frontiers in Neuroscience. 2019;13:567. doi:10.3389/fnins.2019.00567
7 Gentle MJ. Pain in Birds. Animal Welfare. 1992;1(4):235–247. doi:10.1017/S0962728600015189
https://www.azurefarmlife.com/farm-blog/a-complete-guide-on-foods-that-are-toxic-to-chickens-and-ducks
https://overezchickencoop.com/blogs/from-the-chicken-coop/what-herbs-are-good-for-chickens
https://talkinghens.com.au/blogs/learning-centre/beating-chicken-mites-and-lice-the-natural-way#:~:text=The%20red%20mite%2C%20a%20common,eggs%20on%20chickens%2024%2F7.
